A
Appliqué
A lace motif cut from a larger piece of lace and sewn onto the gown, used to add detail, soften an edge or hide a seam. At our atelier, each motif is matched, placed and sewn on by hand.
Read: Adding Lace Appliqués →B
Boning
Slim supports stitched into the seams of a bodice to keep it upright and smooth against the body. Boning can be plastic or steel, depending on how much support the gown needs, and it is used in many styles of gown, not only strapless ones.
Read: Is Your Strapless Dress Slipping? →Bustle
A way of lifting and fastening the train after the ceremony so you can walk and dance freely. Bustles are sewn in with hooks, buttons or ties, and the right style depends on the length, fabric and shape of your train.
Read: Wedding Dress Bustles Explained →C
Corset back
A laced closure that replaces a zipper, with loops down each side of the back. Lacing can be drawn tighter or looser, so it allows a finer fit than a zipper. A corset back is not the same as a corset, which is a specific type of structured bodice; the two terms aren’t interchangeable.
Read: Zipper to Corset Back →F
Facing
A piece of fabric sewn to the inside of an edge, such as a neckline, to finish it cleanly and help it hold its shape. A facing is used in place of a lining when a full lining isn’t the right choice for the gown.
Read: Changing the Neckline →Fitting
An appointment where the gown is pinned and checked on you. Your consultation is also your first fitting. Most brides have a series of fittings, ending with a final fitting where the person helping you on the day learns to bustle the gown.
Read: What to Bring to Your First Fitting →G
Grosgrain
A firm ribbon with fine crosswise ribs. In bridal work it is often used for a waist stay, because it holds its length and doesn’t stretch.
Read: Is Your Strapless Dress Slipping? →H
Hem
The finished bottom edge of the gown. In a gown with several layers, each layer is hemmed separately so they fall together.
Read: Hemming a Wedding Dress →Horsehair braid
A stiff, open-weave tape sewn into a hem to give the skirt structure and stiffness. It comes in different widths, depending on the look you want.
Read: Hemming a Wedding Dress →I
Illusion tulle
A fine, sheer tulle that comes in skin-tone colours, so it blends with the skin. It is used for sleeves, necklines and backs where lace should appear to float on the body.
Read: Adding Sleeves and Coverage →M
Mikado
A heavy, structured fabric with a soft sheen, often used for clean, architectural gowns. It holds its shape, so seams and changes must be planned precisely.
Read: Detachable Off-the-Shoulder Sleeves →O
Off-the-shoulder
A neckline that sits below the shoulders, with straps or sleeves across the upper arm. A strapless gown can often be converted to this style.
Read: Strapless to Off-the-Shoulder →Overskirt
A separate skirt layer worn over the gown and removed later, giving you a second look without a second dress.
Read: Overskirts and Convertible Designs →S
Seam allowance
The fabric left inside a seam, beyond the stitching line. How much there is decides how far a gown can be let out.
Read: Too Big or Too Small →Slit
An opening in the skirt that adds movement and ease when walking. Its height and placement are set at a fitting, while you stand and walk in your shoes.
Read: Adding a Slit →T
Train
The part of the skirt that extends behind you. A train is usually bustled after the ceremony. A common misconception: when a gown is hemmed, the train is not shortened unless you specifically ask for it.
Read: Wedding Dress Bustles Explained →W
Waist stay
A length of grosgrain ribbon tacked inside the gown at the waist and hooked closed before the gown is zipped. It takes the strain off the zipper and keeps the gown sitting at your natural waist.
Read: Is Your Strapless Dress Slipping? →